- Switched to Power Heads for UGFs
- Glass Jar with Lid: New Opae’ula Tank
- Build Your Own UGF
- Diatom Stage Is Tied to the Coral — Not the Tank
- Adjusting the UGF to Reduce or Eliminate Salt Crusting
- Opae K-Pop ‘Ula
- After the Bubble Scare
- Opae’ula Bubble Trouble Solved
- Weird Bubble Growth on Opae’ula Shell
- It Pays to Be Careful When Deactivating a Tank
- Thoughts on Filtration in Opae’ula Tanks
- Opae’ula Doing Laps in Opposite Direction
- Opae’ula Doing Laps in 1-Gallon Bottle
- My 1-Gallon Nishijima-Style Opae’ula Bottle – Video
- Experimental Oblong 2-gal Tank Video
- My Take on the Nishijima Bottle
- Opae’ula Gone Surfin’
- Experimental Oblong 1.5-gal Tank
- 18-gallon Tank in Green Stage 8/23/15
- 18-gallon Tank Entering Green Stage 8/18/15
- 10-gallon in Late Afternoon Sunlight 8/4/15
- Opae’ula in 2.5-gallon Sea Water Tank Are Bright Red
- Diatom Stage in 18-gallon Tank
- 2.5-gallon Tank: Ocean Water + Bottled Water
- Desktop 5-gallon Converted to Undergravel Filter
- Fluval Chi 5-gallon Breeding; New 18-gallon
- Opae’ula Larvae in My 10-gallon Tank
- 10-gallon Colony Began Breeding in Early-May 2015
- 10-gallon Opae ‘Ula Tank Gone Green
- Rich Algae Growth in the 10-gallon Tank
Opae’ula are fun to raise. Since they don’t need much space for a simulated natural environment, we can be creative in building tanks. I believe a gallon jar is about the smallest optimal size. At a thrift shop, I found a 1-gallon glass jar (see photo above) with a lid and decided to turn it into an opae’ula tank.
Since there’s no opening for an air line, I raised the lid at one end about a quarter of an inch to insert a line. Since the lid is made of glass and a bit heavy, I added two rubber shims on both sides of the line to prevent the lid from crimping it. I made the shims out of two quarter-inch wide rings cut off from the end of a large plastic hose. Cutting through the ring at one point creates a u-shaped shim that will fit over the bottle edge.
The tank is not quite ready for opae. Thus far, I made a UGF out of a plastic cover (see photo below of a similar cover) and a spare plastic tube, covered it with gravel, inserted an air line into the exhaust tube, and added brackish water from one of my established tanks. I’ll be adding a coral substrate over the gravel next before adding a small colony of opae from the 18-gallon. Continue reading
Updated 2/4/16, 2/22/16, 3/6/16
My 5-gallon Fluval-Chi is the tank that refuses to die.
After giving up the year-long battle against salt constantly crusting on the top outer edges of the tank, I moved the colony into the 18-gallon, with plans to decommission the Fluval-Chi. However, I was unable to net some tiny juveniles that hid in the gaps in the gravel substrate. I decided to keep the tank running, with no coral condo or lava rocks, until they grew large enough for me to net. The tank is bare, except for the substrate and UGF.
I had lowered the volume of water in the tank by about 50%, but salt crusting was still a constant problem. (The water level in the photo above is higher because I added water after the modification.) Continue reading
Perhaps the upside of the bubble scare is the aftermath, when I have a chance to mull over my original goals in entering this hobby and make some decisions about how I’ll proceed for the foreseeable future. Yesterday, after a full day of observing the 10-gallon, I concluded that the opae’ula were bubble free and returned the quarantined members to the tank. At about 1:00 this afternoon, I took the photos in this post. The tank is as it was prior to the scare.
My original purpose in entering this hobby was to see if I could create a low-maintenence self-sustaining and self-perpetuating environment that would come as close as possible to Dr. Wayne Nishijima’s bottles and Dennis Nakashima’s natural tanks. Both neither fed the shrimp nor used artificial filters. Nishijima’s water was, I assume, from the anchialine pool where the opae were collected. Nakashima’s, from ocean water diluted with tap water. Both neither cleaned the glass nor did water changes. Continue reading